![]() ![]() Slide double wire shrink over entire soldered splice and single wire shrink tube until flush at other end and shrink. Slide single wire shrink up to soldered splice (only over single wire) and shrink. ![]() Take twisted wires and combine with other original wire via a lineman splice kind of style for mechanical connection Slide another shorter piece of shrink tube (may need to be a size smaller diameter shrink) onto single wire Slide on piece of shrink tube onto doubled wire Twist up one end of original wire with new added wire If I were wanting a secure splice on a wire like that, assuming the wire has to be cut, I would : Personally, I don't like using crimp or press on connections on anything that is going to vibrate or move around, unless it is a crimp and solder combo. I've seen butt splice crimp sleeves, but for larger gauges. Especially the new wire with its clumsy exit from the heat shrink sleeve.Īny suggestions for a better Y-Splice? Are crimp options viable? I've used teleco crimp buttons in phone applications I think they look too ugly to put into a pinball machine. This approach seems to work ok, but I wonder about the mechanical strength/durability of the joint. Add a bit of heatshrink to cover the new joint. My typical approach is to cut the existing wire at the desired point, strip and tin the ends. In this case I am splicing a wire end into an existing length of wire. I'm looking for some ideas on a better way to produce a Y-splice with small gauge wire (22-26 AWG). Sorry to get carried away and get so wordy. And a good butt splice doesn't need soldered, either, but soldering will give you a more solid connection. I would like to clarify that I don't solder crimp connections when I am re-pinning the connectors that fit in the circuit board because it is not needed. This will give you that good tight crimp on both sides and you would not need to solder However, because I am using cheap generic shrink tube like the stuff you buy from Autozone or Harbor Freight, I like soldered connections and I would solder and then follow with with the shrink tube. Say you are butt splicing 16 gauge wire on both sides all you have to do is add your wire to make the "Y" then you would also add a short piece of 16 gauge filer wire to the other side, then cut off the excess and follow with your shrink tube. In your situation, you could also place a small piece of filler wire on the other side if needed. But we used the insulated water proof shrink tubes like these: We did not solder our crimps with our aircraft wiring. This practice was written into our wiring specifications and approve by the FAA. And then you would apply your shrink tubing and be left with a good tight crimp with 16 gauge wire on one end and two 22 gauge wires on the other. And then after you made the crimp you would cut off the extra wire from the short piece down to the butt splice. So, the solution was to add an extra piece of 22 gauge wire to take up slack and crimp both the 22 gauge wire along with the short piece into the butt splice. With a crimp size that allowed for 16 gauge wire, the 22 gauge wire would be too small to be crimped tightly. For example, assume you were going to splice two different gauge wires into a butt splice and on one side the wire was 16 gauge and on the other side the wire was 22 gauge. When I was doing aircraft wire harness work, we were allowed to add one "filler" wire into the crimp to "take up slack". Yes, you can add the third wire for your "y" connection. So, can I just use a crimp style butt-splice and add a 3rd wire to accomplish the desired Y-Splice? Wouldn't the extra wire diameter on the "Y" end compromise the crimp connection compared with the single-wired end? ![]()
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